Free Quote call 604-989-9402
Frequently Asked Questions
​
There is no such thing as a silly question so don't be afraid to ask. I have provided the following answers to the most frequent questions I am asked. Each situation, customer and log is unique so please read this with that in mind.
How Much Will it Cost?
​
On a typical job you will usually end up with about two to three times the amount of wood that it would cost if you purchased the wood. This is a general estimate not a guarantee. Sometimes we will do a lot better than that and sometimes, if the wood is difficult or the cuts are complex (i.e. quartersawn old growth) then more time goes into the milling.
​​
Are my logs worth milling?
If you have fir or cedar, it is almost always worth milling. Good quality hemlock logs or other species can also be worth milling depending on the quality. The size and shape is also important. Generally, your logs should be larger than 8 inches at the small end and no larger than 36 inches at the large end. There are ways to cut larger logs and you will get an enormous number of board feet from large logs but they also can be time consuming. Cedar logs, for example, are often flared at the butt end but we can cut these butts off on the mill and the reward is a lot of wood. You need to keep in mind that until we cut into your log, we don’t know exactly what is inside. There can be spiral cracks, sap, rot or infestation…or you might have clear wood with no knots. Each log is different and unique. Also keep in mind that if your trees were exposed to wind or grew on a slope there may be twists and bends that will affect the final product. Call me or send me a photograph. An amazing amount of wood here on the Sunshine Coast is perfect for milling high quality wood.
Will you come for just one log?
Yes. I charge a minimum set up time of one hour. If your log is high quality, it can easily justify the set-up time and yield enough wood to justify the cost.
How long can my logs sit around?
Great question. So much depends on the species and where the log was stacked. Try to get your logs cut up as soon as possible. However, I have cut cedar logs that were ten years old and salvaged plenty of wood.
How much do you charge?
I generally charge $100/hr and I pride myself on having “happy customers” so you can expect that I am generous with my time and you should never feel you were over charged. This rate is based on a decent living wage and the costs of fuel, blades and maintenance. It is also on par with wood milling rates in BC. There is always a minimum charge of 100 dollars to set the mill up. The hourly rate after initial set up is based on my time at the site (not engine time) and includes time to change the blades (which I do every couple of hours or more). I do not charge time to do mill maintenance, sharpen blades nor do I charge time if there is a breakdown. The cost of fuel, oil and sharp blades is included in the hourly rate. If, however, we hit metal in your logs because of nails or foreign objects the cost of a new blade will be added to your bill ($30). Please ensure there are no foreign objects in your logs.
Do You Buy Wood or Logs?
If I know of a customer who needs wood, I will buy your wood at an agreed upon price based on the final board feet that I cut. I do not buy logs as I mill on site. If you simply want to sell your logs and have them transported off site you should contact one of the local mills.
How much lumber will I get?
Generally speaking, we can estimate your final board footage based on using a “scaling” calculation. I can guesstimate this for you based on experience and provide you with a general idea when I see your logs. For example, a large cedar log that is evenly tapered can easily yield 500 board feet of wood. You can calculate the current value of wood if you know that a 12 inch by 12 inch by 1 inch board is equal to one board foot. So, for example, a ten-foot 4X4 cedar post that sells at a Vancouver lumber store is 13.33 board feet of wood. If this post sells for $54.28 (before tax) you would be paying 4.07 a board foot for cedar posts (not including tax) if you purchase this wood locally. If we mill one of your logs into 4X4 posts you could yield as much as $2000 of wood from one 20-foot quality log! You can quickly see that milling wood can be very worthwhile. Bandsaw mills are very efficient and it is amazing how much wood you end up with.
What size of lumber should I cut my logs into?
The ideal scenario is that you have a project in mind from which we can create a “cut list” that specifies what sizes of wood I should mill. This allows me to cut the ideal dimensions for each log and try to pick suitable wood for each final use. For example, if we are aiming for large beams, we need to be picky about which logs will provide the length and dimensions you need. If you are not sure what you will use the wood for, I generally suggest we cut the wood into the largest dimensions that each log will yield using dimensions that you can later handle with your own saw. Wood cut into larger dimensions tends to yield the most value for you. For example, if you have a table saw we can cut large two-inch thick lumber that you can rip later into your desired dimensions. Some people also prefer slabs with one good side that they can rip later. Each situation is different. We can discuss this and decide what will be best for you. Some things to consider will be moving the wood later, stacking it evenly, the likely final use (eg. framing vs siding), the most likely use for the species we are cutting, etc, etc.
How long before I can use the wood? How long do I need to air dry it?
This depends entirely on what you will use the wood for. Ideally wood is air dried until it reaches a stable moisture content. That said, there is a huge difference between using the final wood for building furniture vs fencing. There are many uses that are forgiving of “green” wood. Ideally your wood will be air dried in a breezy, sheltered location out of direct sunlight, and under cover as well as off the ground. The larger the dimensions of your wood the longer it takes to dry. You will want to stack and “sticker” your green wood such that it dries uniformly and keep it under cover. You may want to paint or wax the end of longer beams to reduce checking. Most wood will shrink and move as it dries so doing a good job of stacking and air drying is key.
How do you lift the logs or move them?
​​
Within reason, logs can be moved using peaveys and pulling them into place with chains and winches. They are then rolled onto two arms that lift them hydraulically onto the mill. The mill can lift a fir log that is 20 feet long which is a very heavy log. This all takes time however, so the more organized the logs are, in easy to move piles, the more time we can spend milling.
How long a log can you cut? What length should I buck the logs to?
Twenty feet. I suggest cutting your logs six inches longer than your final length and if you are not sure then cut your logs into 18.5 foot lengths or 16.5 foot lengths.
How booked up are you?
​This depends…some large jobs can tie me up for weeks, others can be finished in a couple of hours. This can make scheduling difficult. Definitely let me know as soon as you can so we can plan a window that will work for you. Also, if travel is involved it makes sense to schedule jobs near each other (islands, etc).
Does the weather matter?
Heavy rain can affect the belt drives and everyone’s mood. I usually work in the rain unless it is extreme. Snow and freezing conditions will not affect milling unless you have gravel or dirt frozen to the logs. Extreme heat can present a fire hazard and extreme winds can introduce safety concerns if the milling site is located under trees. Generally speaking, the weather is mild here on the sunshine coast and I try to keep milling unless things are extreme.
Will you travel?
​​
Yes, I will travel. Travel over fifteen minutes is charged in one direction only which means you are paying me $50/hr to travel. If it is a very long distance or it involves barges or ferries these costs are additional.
Do you fell trees? Do you buck trees?
I am not a faller. There are plenty of qualified fallers on the Sunshine Coast.​
Yes, I can buck trees if you have fallen them. If you are bucking them yourself it is important to limb the trees close to the trunk such that they can be rolled and the limb does not protrude and block the bandsaw blade. A snag, burl or limb that is jutting out in a log pile can make things quite difficult when it comes to rolling logs onto the mill.
If I have a machine (excavator or tractor) how do you want me to stack the logs?
Assess your site and stack the logs on the uphill side so we can roll them downhill. Even a slight gradient matters when we are moving logs manually. I need room to back the trailer next to the logs (loading from the driver’s side). Think of the front of the mill as being the end that is closest to the truck that pulls the mill. If you can, stack your logs so the thickest or butt end is at the front of the mill (closest to the truck). Try to keep the end of the logs on one end of the stack even with each other (front of the mill) so we can roll the logs onto the mill consistently. If you have logs under ten feet then stack these in the middle of the pile so they will roll onto the loading arms. Stack the logs on at least two smaller smooth logs laid down as a carriage that we can roll logs across. These should be about eight-inch smooth logs that will support the weight of the stack without sinking. If you are on softer ground buck up some shorter logs to lay under these two carriages so they don’t sink into the ground. If you can, try to have these logs on a slight angle so the logs roll easier. Ideally, don’t stack logs into a high pile as this can be dangerous later when we need to roll them. If you can, stack the smaller lighter logs on top and remember we have to move them by hand so it is better to have a wider stack that we can roll then a higher stack that can cause the logs to jamb. I do operate an excavator so if you have one on site this makes our lives much easier.
Which side does your mill load onto? Does the site need to be level?
​
The driver’s side or the left-hand side of the mill when it is being pulled by a truck.
​​
The mill needs to be level to operate but it can be jacked up onto boards and leveled.
​​
How big a log can you handle?
The mill can cut a 34-inch diameter log but there are a few techniques that allow me to cut larger diameter widths under certain circumstances. If your logs are massive, they need to be quartered with a chainsaw before being milled and you will need a machine to move these quartered sections as they do not roll onto the mill.
What should I do if my logs are dirty?
Hose them down, ideally with a pressure washer or we can clean them with a steel brush and broom before cutting. Gravel, stones sand and dirt will dull the blades quickly and really slow us down. In many cases the bark can be quickly stripped with a shovel or ice pick. Try to keep your logs clean. It makes a big difference.
How can I best prepare for milling day?
​
Know your project. Prepare a cut list. Clear the area around the mill such that I can park the mill. Ensure the logs are clean and if not, try to provide a water hose so we can clean as we go. You will save a lot of money if the log handling is efficient, the logs are clean and the offloading of boards and offcuts is efficient. Ensure we have enough room to stack wood and to stack the offcuts and slabs in two different piles. Let your neighbors know that we will be making some noise. Remember I have to get the mill out again so we need to leave enough room at the site to exit. As most of my work is generated by word of mouth, I appreciate putting a sign up while I am milling with my contact information on it.
How do you like to get paid?
​
I appreciate being paid at the end of every job with either cash, e-mail transfer or a cheque. Cheques should be made out to Michael Simpson and e transfers should be sent to mike@onesky.ca or my phone number 604-989-9402
If I am working on large jobs, I appreciate being paid every 20 hours of work (i.e. $2000 dollar increments).
Have more questions? Just give me a call and we can discuss your specific situation (604)-989-9402